Showing posts with label Upper west. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Upper west. Show all posts

Wednesday, 31 December 2014

Training for an Illegality


WA; Capital of the upper west of Ghana 

Ghana has interesting rules when it comes to the usage of motorbikes. In the northern part of the county where i lived last year and the early part of this year, most people own and use motorbikes. This is presumably due to the poor nature of the roads and the relatively lower cost of owning and maintaining a motorbike than purchasing a car. In fact one of the things i really enjoyed whiles living in the northern part of Ghana is getting to ride (as a passenger) on a motor bike everyday. On any given day i would ride either a motorbike or a bicycle for errands. I think my obsession with riding on bikes stems from the fact that  motorbikes are not predominant in the south where i came from. I always looked forward to travelling to the city (Wa) from the village during weekends. The 'getting there' part of the trip was always the most exciting for me. The sound of the strong winds on your face, the energy, the noise and the excitement as the bike traveled a 100km/hr. Whiles we left a thick cloud of dusty air behind us as we sped forward. I never got tired of looking at the beautiful northern Savanna landscapes as well as the lovely views of dam 15. I was always surprised at how kids as young as 10 and 12 could ride motorbikes whiles an adult like me couldn't. I vowed to learn how to ride so that i could purchase one when i move to Accra. But sadly all that had to come to an end after a year, i didn't learn how to ride a motorbike and I've hence moved back south.
On days that i reminisce about good times in the north, my bike rides always comes up as part as some of my favourite moments. Therefore i was surprised to find commercial motorbike services who were willing to take passengers from one part of the city to another. But the sad bit about this service it that they are illegal says the Ghana police. It is not a recognised form of commercial transport in Ghana unlike Nigeria. These motorbikes popularly know as 'Okada' though its illegal looks like its highly patronized because although the police have tried to shut them out for so many times. They find a way of weaving their way back into Ghana's transportation system. Supply usually goes with demand therefore the fact that these illegal commercial motor bike operators keep coming back into the transport system means that customers clearly keep demanding and articles such as this and this further buttresses that point. So here is where i come clean, as a transport user and a commuter i have patronised the services of the bike riders a few times. They are cheaper than a taxi cab, can weave in and out of traffic and therefore i get to where i'm going faster and is a quick easy transport fix. On most of my illegal rides on these motor bikes the riders usually ask me whether i have a motorbike of my own? After replying 'no' i usually ask them why i keep being asked that question and most riders tell me i don't seem jittery and nervous when i sit on the bike. I have the perfect balance and don't hold on to them too tight out of fear. It looked like all the riding i have been doing back in the north has payed off. Considering i was nervous and probably held on to the rider too hard back then when i started riding.  These comments on the riders part make me  happy but then i realise am encouraging something which is illegal, i don't get happy as much. 

Sunday, 28 September 2014

Upper West Reunited


I have officially left the upper west of Ghana as a national service personnel, upon leaving upper west, i spent a few weeks in Kumasi which is the capital of the Ashanti region of Ghana. Kumasi will always hold a special place in my life since i lived there more than a decade. What i love about that city is that it has the perfect mix of urban feel and cultural heritage. There is a lot to see and do from visiting wood carver and their beautiful arts and crafts stores in Ahwiaa to checking out lionesses at the zoo. But for some really odd reason, i would not like to stay in Kumasi long term (i see it more as an escape city). I came to Accra after my Kumasi visit but whiles in Accra, i knew i would go to upper west soon. This is because i had some unfinished business that needed taking care of. Though an inconvenience for traveling all the way north for some really trivial 'business' reason that could have been done over the phone, any opportunity for travel for me should not be missed.even if i have have been to that particular place a thousand times. It would also be an opportunity to catch up with some old friends from the program who i'ld probably be seeing for the last time. 
All Hail the amateur motor rider

My friends from the national service program Emmanuel, Domnic, Julius, Daniel, and Micheal

Country side always beautiful 

Countryside
I didn't do anything really special on this trip, i just took a leisurely work in and around the main market to see what traders had in store as well as a walk through the principal streets of Wa which is the capital of the upper west region of Ghana. A few minutes after taking the beautiful pictures of the countryside. The weather became gloomy that explains the cloudy nature of the weather in the other photos.
A walk through the market



Heavy rains prevented me from doing a lot more sight seeing and walking 




Friday, 22 August 2014

Northern Ghana Travel Bucket List


Writing a 'bucket list' of places i want to go to always gets me excited. For me a bucket list is like a to-do list without the added pressure. For the past year, i have been living in the northern part of Ghana for my national service ( a mandatory one year spent working for the government upon completing a tertiary institution) but i am done with the service therefore i am back home in the south. Whiles living in the north, i took a one week backpacking trip to explore some of the beautiful tourist sites that the northern region had to offer. The northern parts of Ghana consists of three political regions namely the upper east, upper west and northern regions. All these regions have a variety of tourist sites and places of interest. My backpacking trip could not take me to all the places i wanted to go because i did not have the time or enough money to go there. I am writing this blog post as a public to-do list or travel bucket list which will make me extra committed to going to these places i'm about to mention.

First on my list is Mole National Park: The Mole park is a wildlife game reserve located in the northern region of Ghana. It is about the most popular game park in Ghana and has a variety of wildlife for viewing pleasure. There are elephants, antelopes, monkeys, Buffalos, leopards etc This park is one of the tourist sites i can't wait to visit. Information i've gathered so far tell me its best visited during the dry season which is usually from November to April. I am making plans to go there early next year. Mole has onsite catering and accommodation therefore it would be great to spend a few days watching the wildlife especially the elephants since i've never seen one in real life. Whiles returning to Wa from my backpacking trip, the bus i was travelling in passed by the Mole park but all i saw was tall trees and vast forest. I thought i could catch a glimpse of an elephant or a baboon.
courtesy: Mole Motel Ghana

Larabanga Mosque and Mystery Stone: Close to the Mole National park is the Larabanga Mosque. The mosque is an ancient work of art built by an Islamic trader in the 15th century. Larabanga is one of Ghanas revered tourist sites and receives lots of visitors both nationals and non-nationals alike. It also features prominently on some post stamps from Ghana. Over the years it has gone through several repair works because it was built with mud but the essential design that set the mosque apart has been maintained. The mosque is not very far from the Mole national park (about 10 kilometres)  therefore i plan to visit this ancient mosque as part of my trip to Mole
courtesy: Wikepedia
Close to the Larabanga mosque is the Mysterious stone. Legend has it that during the colonial era in Ghana, a road was to be constructed where the mysterious is situated therefore the stone was removed and displaced but it was found at the exact spot where it was removed the following day. The stone found it's way back when it was removed the second time. This by any standards is not normal hence the name 'mysterious'. This said stone is believed to have healing powers therefore pilgrims to the Larabanga mosque also touch the mysterious stone for healing and spiritual purification. The road has since been diverted around the stone and a wall built around it. I caught a glimpse of the wall which encompasses this stone whiles travelling to Wa but i was really sad i didn't see the stone itself.
Mysterious stone photo courtesy: Ghana photographers


Tongo Whistling Rocks: These rocks can be found in Tongo in the upper east region of Ghana. The rocks at Tongo makes ghostly whistling noises during the harmattan when the weather is generally dry and airy.
Tongo Rocks: Photo credit Ghana Travels

Tono Irrigation Dam: The last tourist site on my northern Ghana travel bucket list is the huge irrigation dam in upper east region of Ghana. It was built in the 70s for agricultural purposes but has clearly served another purpose which is tourism. Tono dam is an ideal destination for water sports and relaxation and it's very popular in the upper east region since there are not enough water bodies in the northern part of Ghana.

Wednesday, 20 August 2014

West to East: My Top 3 Tourist Sites


Northern Ghana is an exciting place when it comes to tourism. There are a myriad of tourist destinations and sites to visit. These are my top three out of the various tourist sites i have visited. These three tourist sites can be located in the upper west and upper east regions of Ghana. 

Wechiau Hippopotamus Sanctuary

The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located at a small town called Wechiau in the upper west region of Ghana. The hippopotamus sancutuary is about a 10 kilometre ride from the town square. It is a pleasure to see the hippos swimming on a warm day whiles they come out to look for food at night. The hippopotamus are untamed therefore wander to and fro the Volta river where they reside. It's interesting to see hippopotamus in their natural environment. I went to this tourist site last year and i really enjoyed the trip. I particularly enjoyed the canoe ride called 'river safari' since it was my first time on a canoe. I would not hesitate to go to Wechiau again, may be this time for a longer period and possibly a camping trip. You can read my trip report of this amazing tourist destination here and for all visitors information on accommodation, dinning etc click here.
Hippopotamus skull at wechiau

Paga Crocodile Pond

I read about the Paga crocodile pond when i was a kid and since then it has been on my travel bucket list. Therefore on a recent backpacking trip it was high on my bucket list and i really didn't regret going to Paga because the last time i saw a crocodile, i was watching from a very safe distance whiles the crocodile was caged. This was about 6 years ago at a zoo. But to touch, feel and even squat on a crocodile was much more surreal. It was a great experience. Although it's been a few weeks since i came back from this tourist trip, it still feels like yesterday. The way humans and crocodile coexist in Paga is nothing short of amazing and legend of how the crocodiles became an integral part of the society is nothing short of amazing. At Paga i learnt the word 'herptophobia' as i panicked when it was time for me to hold the crocodile. You can access the trip report here and every tourist information you need about the crocodile pond here.
Crocodile at Paga

Nania-Pikworo Slave Camp

It wasn't after i have been to the Paga crocodile pond did i hear about Nania and when i heard of Nania my mind went straight to C.S Lewis classic book 'chronicles of nania'. But this Nania is different, it is a defunct slave camp which was operated  by African slave masters. Piwkworo slave camp has a harrowing story of slavery which has no doubt has a dent on the African continent and Africa in general. It was only in Pikworo slave camp that i learnt that Africans traded each other for sugar during the slave trade. My trip report is available and you can click here for tourist information if you want to visit Nania-Pikworo slave camp.

This sign post ushers you into the camp






Saturday, 16 August 2014

Confessions of an African Backpacker


This is my last post on the series of my one week backpacking tour where i backpacked from the upper west region of Ghana to the upper east. I am doing a short question and answer question to inform you more on how fun it is to backpack in Ghana

Question: Why did you decide to go on a backpacking trip?

Answer: I had always wanted to visit the tourist sites in the upper east region of Ghana like the Paga crocodile pond and the mysterious stone at Winkongo near Bolgatanga. But i never really made enough time or money to go to all these places. Then the perfect opportunity presented itself. There was a one week break from work therefore i used that time to go on the trip. Besides i knew i wouldn't be in the northern region of Ghana for long (since my mandatory one year service rendered to the government was coming to an end). I wanted to take the trip before its too late. And one week seemed like the perfect duration. It was long enough to see the tourist sites and it was short enough not to overwhelm me since i feared i might not enjoy the backpacking trip.

Question: How did you prepare for your backpacking trip?

Answer: I had never gone backpacking prior to this trip therefore i honestly didn't know what to take along. But northern Ghana is quite sunny and warm therefore i decided to pack 2 pairs of jeans some cotton sweat shirts and some underwear. I went along with a huge sweater as well. I also packed my little laptop so that i could blog about my experience and an ipad since i did not have a camera the ipad served as my camera besides i wanted to upload pictures of the tourist sites on my twitter page. I also downloaded a map of Ghana to enable me track my journey as i went along. I packed some deodorants and a light towel i would use to shower when i stayed in a guest house.

Question: Do you know anybody in the places you wanted to visit?

Answer: Yes i knew one person in Bolgatanga and another old school mate of mine in Tumu but when i called to find out whether i could see them. They were both out of town therefore i didn't get to see any of them. Garu was initially not part of the places i wanted to visit but a very good friend of mine lived there and since it's quite close to Bawku. I added it to the list in order to see my friend.
Met my friend in Garu
Question: How was the entire trip like?

Answer: I really had a good time. It felt good to see places i have heard and finally being there. It was interesting to read the map as the bus moved along during the bus rides. i was tracking every where i went on the map which really cool. For once i got to know how a map actually worked,  I was happy to see the Paga crocodile pond because it's such a major tourist centre in Ghana. I felt really good when i went to Tumu and Navrongo since they are popular towns in Ghana. I also loved the arts and crafts at Bolgatanga, i even bought a cool little xylophone.Though most parts of the trip was fun and exciting, i felt like coming back home on the first day. It rained heavily that day so it was cold, wet and lonely. But then again i told myself nobody was forcing me to go backpacking. I am doing it for fun therefore i can go home anytime i wanted. The fact that i told myself i can go home at anytime put me at ease and helped me relax.
Paga crocodile pond

Question: Any special observations?

Answer: I was really blown away by the level of kindness shown me by complete strangers. People offered me rides on their motorbikes others were willing to escort me to places when i asked directions for. I thought the food in the upper east would be different but it didn't vary much. People were quite surprised when i told them i'm on a backpacking trip. According to them they have not seen an African on a backpacking trip. I didn't know there was another tourist site close to the Paga crocodile pond, a former slave camp known as Nania slave camp so it was great to visit another tourist site i didn't know about.
Watchtower of camp security at Nania slave camp

Question; Knowing what you know now will you do anything differently on your next backpacking trip?

Answer: Sure, i would definitely pack fewer clothes. I didn't even wear 50% of the clothes i took But i would  definitely pack more underwear. The sweater i took was unnecessary since after the first day it was sunny through out the week. The laptop did not serve any purpose because i used the ipad through out the journey. Next time i won't worry too much because one does not achieve anything by worrying and  would rather hope and believe that the world is a safe place.

Question: Any regrets?

Answer: Yes, i couldn't take pictures at night since the ipad does not have a flash light. Therefore i couldn't document what happened in the evenings. It was the world cup season and most of the Ghanaian matches were in the evening so i wanted to document how people were watching and enjoying the world cup. On hindsight i regret my backpacking was only just a week because i was really enjoying it and by the last day i didn't want to come back but i was running out of time and money. I was also sad i couldn't make it to two other tourist sites that is the Tono dam in Navrongo and the mysterious stones which makes ghostly noises at Wunkungo a small village near Bolgatanga.
Second day after i have braced the storm. Notice the big sweater around my neck?

Question: Would you recommend this backpacking trip or backpacking in northern Ghana?

Answer: Yes definitely ( i would like to go again myself and for a longer period this time).
Brought home this cool xylophone as my travel souvenir 

Question: Do you have plans to go on another backpacking trip?

Answer: Now that i have tasted how backpacking feels like, i want to go on one every year. I would take time off every year to backpack and enjoy the wonderful things that my country has and hopefully backpack and holiday in other countries.






Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Tamale: My Brief Stopover

After visiting my friend in Garu, it was time to go back to Lassia, yeah!!1 my same old boring village life after an awesome time backpacking through Tumu Navrongo Paga  Bawku and Garu. Yet there was one place i haven't visited and that was Tamale. But there was a problem. I had run out of money and it was a Sunday whiles school was reopening on Monday (i teach). So i figured i could pass through Tamale en route to Wa. If i get to spend a few hours at Tamale, i can't really say i have stayed there but at least i would have a fair idea of what Tamale looks like. Besides i didn't want to go back the route i came therefore i decided to do a brief stopover at Tamale.




Barrier after Pawlugu where there is fresh farm produce for sale

First there was the taxi ride from Garu to Bawku. At Bawku i sat in a bus enroute to Tamale. Some of the towns worthy of note on the Bolgatanga to Tamale highway are Savelugu, Pawlugu, Wulugu, Wale Wale etc. After a bus ride that took about 2 hours and 30 minutes we made our way to Tamale. 







These pictures were taken whiles the bus was in motion.

Upon arriving at Tamale, it was a little late in the afternoon around 3pm  and i had to continue my journey the same day. The ride from Tamale to Wa my final destination is another 6 hour bus ride therefore i had to get on the Wa bound bus immediately. I got really sad i couldn't explore Tamale the capital of the northern region of Ghana like i wanted to. But i know i would definitely visit another time. Although sad, i was also happy at the same time because in a single day i have been to three different cities in Ghana because my bus passed through Bolgatanga (capital of the upper east) en route to Tamale (capital of the northern region) and i was headed for Wa (capital of the upper west) so that make 3 different cities. I deserve an award...

Sunday, 3 August 2014

In Garu: Everything is Round


From Bawku and all the blabbing about donkey travel  and how they can help reduce Co2 emission and global warming. I made my way to my friends place at Garu which is a small town about 35 kilometres from Bawku in the upper east region of Ghana. At this time all the travelling i've done during the week from statue watching in Bolgatanga to squatting on top of a crocodile for a pose at Paga was beginning to take its toll on me and i was dying for a proper bed and some good home made meal.
At Garu, all picture picture taking and interesting topics for blog posts derailed as i met my friend Joeseph. Everything then degenerated into conversations and chit chatting and our obsession with the latest movies (our shared passion). We also visited mutual friends who were also doing their national service in the area. But one thing that really took my interest was the round nature of the mud houses. Mud houses in the upper west where i was coming from are usually rectangular or square shaped therefore it was a pleasure seeing new ways of how people build houses.



I wished i lived in one of these 'bad boys' ha!
But i also wondered how furniture and other house hold equipment will fit into a round hut but it turns out people who live in mud houses do not have much anyway therefore there was nothing to worry about. Inside a mud house you will usually find a mat spread on the floor, a radio set, a plastic chair and the individuals clothes and a few cooking utensils. The lifestyle is quite minimalistic.

Picture of the town 'Garu'


After two days in Garu, my backpacking trip had come to an end officially as in the places i wanted to visit because in Garu i crossed every destination off my bucket list except Tamale. But then i wanted to go back to Wa through Tamale so that i could have a feel of what the northern region of Ghana looks like since i have not been there yet and besides i didn't want to go back the same way i came that is through Upper east region.
Bye Joe but before i leave let's take a selfie!!!

Saturday, 2 August 2014

Tourist Site: Wechiau Hippopotamus Sanctuary-Ghana


Wechiau Hippopotamus Sanctuary

Wechiau hippopotamus sanctuary is a wild hippopotamus habitat located in the Upper west region of Ghana. Wechiau is the last town and district capital of the wa-west district.


Get There

 Wechiau is approximately 34 kilometres from Wa which is the capital city of the Upper west region. There is public transport going to Wechiaw from Wa everyday of the week. Private car rentals are hard to come by. Therefore it is advisable to rent a mini bus from Wa when travelling in groups. But on a solo expedition you can join the public vehicles going there.


Accommodation/Lodging and Dinning  

Accommodation: The hippo sanctuary has guest house accommodation for tourist who want to spend the night. There are clean basic rooms with fans (no air conditioning). There is no restaurant therefore there is a kitchen on site. You can buy fresh farm produce from the market and cook your own meals. Cooked food is also available in town but be careful.

Activities

The office of the hippopotamus sanctuary is located not very far from the town square. The office is where you book the tour to see the hippopotamus.  After booking the tour there is then the 18 kilometre ride to a village called Talewona, this is the nearest village to the river (black volta) where the hippopotamus reside.


Hippopotamus sanctuary office

Hippopotamus skull

Crafts store

Reception area


Activities available are 
The River Safari
You tour the black volta river in a canoe where you get to see the hippopotamus in their natural surroundings. The hippopotamus swim during the day and hunt for food at night. The river also serves as a boundary between Ghana and Burkina Faso. These hippopotamus are wild and not caged therefore it is interesting to watch them in their natural habitat and observe the way they react to people.
Bird Watching
You can also see varieties of birds especially early in the morning. You can go along with binoculars for better viewing opportunities. There are cattle egrets, grey herons and kingfishers
Camping
There are designated spaces meant for camping as well as opportunity to visit the three main families who live close to the river. This offers you the opportunity to see the way of life of a traditional West African family in a village dwelling 


Prices

  • Booking for the tour cost 10 cedis for non-nationals and 8 cedis for Ghanaian nationals and students. Students must present their ID cards (tour fee include the tour guide and life  jacket for canoe ride)
  • The river safari cost 8 cedis per hour
  • The guest house accommodation cost 15 cedis for the night
NB: All the prices stated are 2014 prices

Contact

You can contact this tourist site at http://www.ghanahippos.com/
or the following numbers
+233-024-280-590-8
+233-026-577-311-7