Upper West Reunited

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I have officially left the upper west of Ghana as a national service personnel, upon leaving upper west, i spent a few weeks in Kumasi which is the capital of the Ashanti region of Ghana. Kumasi will always hold a special place in my life since i lived there more than a decade. What i love about that city is that it has the perfect mix of urban feel and cultural heritage. There is a lot to see and do from visiting wood carver and their beautiful arts and crafts stores in Ahwiaa to checking out lionesses at the zoo. But for some really odd reason, i would not like to stay in Kumasi long term (i see it more as an escape city). I came to Accra after my Kumasi visit but whiles in Accra, i knew i would go to upper west soon. This is because i had some unfinished business that needed taking care of. Though an inconvenience for traveling all the way north for some really trivial 'business' reason that could have been done over the phone, any opportunity for travel for me should not be missed.even if i have have been to that particular place a thousand times. It would also be an opportunity to catch up with some old friends from the program who i'ld probably be seeing for the last time. 

All Hail the amateur motor rider

My friends from the national service program Emmanuel, Domnic, Julius, Daniel, and Micheal

Country side always beautiful 

Countryside

I didn't do anything really special on this trip, i just took a leisurely work in and around the main market to see what traders had in store as well as a walk through the principal streets of Wa which is the capital of the upper west region of Ghana. A few minutes after taking the beautiful pictures of the countryside. The weather became gloomy that explains the cloudy nature of the weather in the other photos.

A walk through the market

Heavy rains prevented me from doing a lot more sight seeing and walking 

A Trip To The Zoo

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About a week ago, i visited the Kumasi zoo which is right at the city centere. The zoo is close to the 'Kejetia market and bus terminal' which is said to be one of the largest open air markets in West Africa hence, the location of the zoo is not a place to miss. It is about the only zoo in Ghana. There is no zoo in Accra which is the capital of Ghana. A few years back, the zoo in Accra was closed down for relocation to another part of town so that a new zoo could be built. The animals in the Accra zoo was transported to Kumasi zoo as their temporary home. But a few years and counting it doesn't look like the Accra zoo is going to be finished anytime soon. Therefore if you have any plans of seeing some wildlife in Ghana, then your best bet is to go to Kumasi or the Mole national park (northern Ghana)

I grew up a  bit in Kumasi so i got to go to the zoo a lot. Hardly a month passed without me going there. I was really fascinated by the animals especially the lions. I remember an incident which happened years back. My friends and i went to the zoo and whiles doing the normal animal watching, other visitors joined us. I as usual was standing by the lion enclave and just admiring them. There was this kid who also came to the zoo that day wearing a red sweater with matching red pants. As soon as the lions saw this boy they started roaring and banging the cage trying to get out to catch the boy who i must say was fear stricken and therefore couldnt move. Everybody at the spot started running for their dear lives and i also run as well. But whiles running i was still looking back to watch how agressive the lions were in trying to get out to catch the boy. I must admit that the female lions were the most aggressive in trying to get out and pounce on the boy. The fear stricken boy who was obviously shaken couldn't run like the rest of us and started crying and screaming for help. All this happened in a matter of seconds. Other visitors who didn't know what was going on also started running thinking one of the animals has let loose. A guide in an office close by the lions enclave heard the shouts of the boy and the noise, he went for the kid and brought him to the office to calm him down. Since that day i never forgot not to wear red to the zoo and never ever mess with a lion and even a lioness for good measure. So what's with animals and the color red? I have been chased a few times by a turkey because i had on a red sweatshirt, on the television i see this really bizarre (but interesting) sports where bulls charge at full throttle to attack young men who are holding red flags. 

I haven't been to the zoo in ages (about 5 years now) so i visited on a bright Tuesday morning and did not have problems locating it after all the years i haven't been there. I paid 10 cedis which was the standard rates for adults. Upon paying i thought i would be given a tour guide to take me around but the man took the money and said nothing. I also didn't request for one either. The zoo covers a wide area with lush trees and plants. There are many cages housing different types of wildlife. Upon entering the zoo one of my lifelong dreams came true. I saw an elephant. This might sound funny but until that time i had never seen a real elephant. All i had seen of an elephant were the bones i saw in a museum some time ago. Seeing an elephant and other wildlife in their natural habitat was the main reason why i wanted to go to the Mole National Park next year. The elephant was very adorable and i watched it more than hour, just daydreaming how my life would be if were my personal pet. Civets, deer, donkeys, python and geese were new animals i had not seen on my last visit. Though its been nearly 2 weeks since i visited the zoo, i still can't get the image of the African python out of my mind. The snake was huge!!. I have heard they can swallow human beings whole and i am tempted to believe now that i have seen them. Good thing they can go 6 months without eating. Because i was sincerely wondering how many deers a python like that has to eat before its full.
After seeing the new animals, i went to see my old pals ie lions, hyenas, eagle, ostrich, camel, monkeys and so on. When you come close to wildlife, they are bigger than when you see them on television. For example, the camel and ostrich were extremely tall and the hyena was fairly large. The hyenas and lions were taking a nap when i got there and after waiting for them to get up and walk around without much success i moved on to watch the monkeys. Anytime i visit the zoo, i educate myself on the difference between a baboon, chimpanzee and the various monkeys but it looks like it doesn't stay in my memory for a long period. Therefore on this zoo trip to i did the same. Now my hope is that it stays in my memory forever.

PS: I know you are wondering by now why i didn't add pictures? I took lots of pictures but i mistakenly deleted them when trying to load it on my computer. My selfie with an ostrich is gone forever. But no, worries because i will return to Kumasi this December for the holidays. Therefore expect zoo pictures and more images in my statue and monuments collection.

Armed Forces Museum-Kumasi Ghana

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The last time i came to this museum was about 8 years ago and i don't remember an iota of what was said on that day. So after taking all interesting statues and monuments picture. I felt compelled to go there to refresh my memory on the history of the military forces in Ghana. Armed forces museum is one of the premier military museums in Ghana.

The fort now turned museum was originally built by the king of Asante who was known as Nana Osei Tutu Kwamina in 1820. The king of Ashanti at that time greatly admired the forts and castle in Cape coast and Elmina therefore wanted a similar for to be built in Ashanti. The structure took four years to build and was finished by 1824 and was built with granite and red soil from Cape Coast  which was carted to Kumasi. The fort served as a cantonment for the military until it burned down in 1873/74 and was later rebuilt in 1896. In the year 1900 the governor of the Gold Coast Sir Frederic Hodgson accompanied by his wife and a small detachment of troops visited Kumasi. At Kumasi he demanded the surrender of the Golden Stool of the Ashanti Kingdom (A stool/Insignia which embodied the soul of the Ashanti Kingdom which was held in custody by successive Ashanti kings).

This led to the last British-Ashanti war and the Governor and his wife with 29 other Europeans were besieged in the fort. After many weeks of great privation. They were able to escape with a detachment of the Gold Coast constabulary and they made their way down to Cape Coast the small garrison which remained was relieved on 15th July by a relief column under Col James Wilcock

               

Front-View of the museum 

                    

The fort was converted into a museum in 1952 by the Ghana Armed Forces then known as the 'Gold Coast' regiment. after the second world war. Upon entering the museum, the tour guide then proceeded to take me to each room one after the other. The first room we entered had a collection of old guns and rifles as well as knives and canons. The room also had portraits of successive Commander in Chief (presidents) Ghana have had since independent. Every room had a dedicated aspect of the armed forces it talks about. The Gold Coast regiment also helped their colonial masters in the second world war. At the museum i saw captured flags and ammunition of Japan, Germany Ethiopia (which was know in the pas as Abyssinia). 

Then there was "a prison of no return" section of the fort. The tour guide encouraged me to go inside whiles she closed the prison door for a few seconds. The place got pitch black all of a sudden and i could barely fit turn around but apparently offenders were thrown into the prison 3 people at a time. They were then brought out after they have all died. At the Navy section i saw nice portraits of \Ghana's Navy commanders both pas and present and an interesting picture of Ghanas first female diver. 

Model of Ghanas first Navy ship

It is interesting to see how well the Armed Forces have documented their history. I saw photos of the first people to wear shoes in the Armed forces. Did you know during the world war there were not enough shoes for the soldiers therefore the had to wear the shoes in turns? For me waiting your turn to wear a pair of shoes seems really bizarre.But apparently that was what they had to contend with in their day. Though i have been to this museum before, i felt really good that i came back to refresh my memory on the history of the armed forces of Ghana.

This artifact you see here was a gift given to Dr. Kwame Nkrumah  (Ghanas first president) by Emperor Haile Selassie 

These mask and amulets were brought to the museum from Congo. It was believed that when purified and worn by a soldier it would repel gunshots. But my tour guide couldn't authenticate whether a soldier was able to withstand a gun battle test wearing it.

Ammunition room

Ammunition

Ceremonial gear worn by members of the National Liberation Council a military sect that once upon a time ruled Ghana.

These guns were seized by the Italians during the war

Ceremonial gear worn by drummers during the Gold Coast regiment

Kumasi: An Anthology of Statues

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If you read my previous travel post on arts and crafts then u know i have been staying in Kumasi the capital city of the Ashanti region of Ghana for the past two weeks now. I must say my stay has been awesome. So many things to do and see here. Kumasi though cosmopolitan has a very rich cultural history. The city is predominantly made of the Ashanti tribe who are a tribe of people known to be proud of their culture. Social gatherings and events especially funerals are a must see. One of the things i like about Kumasi which makes it distinct from other regional capitals of Ghana is how nicely they decorate public spaces. Hardly do you pass by a roundabout without seeing a statue or a monument of some sort. Therefore for the past 2 weeks i have been here, i put it upon myself to document some of my favourite statues and monuments in the city. Most of the people you would see made in statues are people who have had an impact on the city and the region at large. Therefore there is a plethora of statues which represent spiritual leaders, political leaders, past Ashanti kings and what have you. These are some of the statues and are by no means exhaustive i would be adding more as i see them.

            

Okomfo Anokye was a revered spiritual leader in Ashanti legend has it that he conjured the "golden stool"(which is the embodiment of the Ashanti people) from the sky.

One of my favourites 

                                   

Dr, Kwame Nkrumah Ghanas' first prime minister and later president. He was known to be at the forefront of the battle for independence in Ghana. This statue can be found in front of the University of Science and Technology which is named after him. 

The Insignia of Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology

An Ashanti king 

This can be found at Kumasi business district

Yet to be unveiled can't wait to come back in December and see what it is.

Kumasi Arts and Crafts

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A few weeks back i wrote on the awesome arts and crafts i saw in Bolgatanga whiles backpacking  in northern Ghana. Currently i'm in Kumasi which is the capital of the Ashanti region of Ghana. I have a soft spot for this city because i lived here for 10 years and therefore have so many fond memories of the time i spent here growing up. One of the things the people of Kumasi are known for is how high they uphold their traditions and culture. I dare say Kumasi is the most culturally grounded city in Ghana. The sense of community is strong and family ties are revered. On any given Saturday you would see droves of people clad in black going from one funeral to another. Their passion for football is unrivaled and be ready to listen to not less than 6 daily sports updates on local radio at any given day.

There are many things to see and do in Kumasi (expect a bazillion posts on that one). One of the things Kumasi is known for is its beautiful wood carvings and sculptures. These carvings are made primarily in a suburb of Kumasi called Ahwiaa though some can also be found at the arts and cultural centre. At Ahwiaa you would see a wide array of beautiful wood carvings made from the finest of wood  and sculpted to perfection. Some of the wood carvings include dolls known locally as 'akuaba', masks, stools,drums, key chains etc.It's interesting to note that the school i attended when i lived in Kumasi was quite close to Ahwiaa but i never really bothered to admire the beautiful work of art and the amount of time, energy and work that goes into these crafts. Now that i'm old i tend to appreciate it more because there is no way i can make any of these things therefore i have new found respect for these craftsmen and what they do. Just take a look at some of them.

African drums

A clock in the making (made to resemble African sandals) this isn't finished yet but i know it's gonna be awesome.

Assorted crafts can you notice the stools

A craftsman busy at work

Assorted bracelets on sale

One of my favourite pieces

Impact of Ebola on the African Tourism Industry

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I read with excitement all over the web as the doctor who caught the ebola virus and was flown back to the United States had been healed. I don't know what warrants my excitement because as Africans we still haven't found a way of dealing with this deadly virus yet. I am happy there has still not been a major reported case of the ebola virus in Ghana where i am. I usually hear on the radio once in a while that someone is being quarantined in a hospital for a suspected case of ebola later it turns out to be a hoax. Measures Ghana has put in place includes suspending all international conferences for the time being as well as guarding its entry points to prevent entry by people suspected to be carrying the ebola virus. These are all good measures and i sincerely hopes it works. From the time i heard about the outbreak of this deadly virus in Liberia, i have been particularly concerned about the impact this disease would have on the tourism industry.

All the stories i have read on this disease since the outbreak has tagged it as a "west African disease" which is not helping matters in any way. Ghana amongst other west African nations receive an influx of tourists all year round. Tourism revenues has been a big earner for the Ghanaian economy and i dare say that a huge chunk of this revenues come from foreigners because for every tourist center i have been to in this country, foreigners are charged twice as much because they are deemed non-nationals. We can then add the fancy hotels, restaurants, parks and public places of entertainment which are closely associated with the tourism industry that is where we know foreigners especially Americans and Europeans are really supporting Ghanas tourism industry. I recently visited a museum (a blog post on that coming soon) and when i was asked to sign the guest book, most of the visitors that had been to the tourist site for the past two months were either European or American. Therefore if major contributors to travel/tourism industry  in west Africa do not want to come for fear of ebola virus then there would be a guaranteed decrease in tourism revenues.

Ask most Africans why they don't go on holiday and there would be a unanimous "I can't afford it" answer. If we as Africans can't afford tourism, revelling, camping, sightseeing, backpacking and what have you then we must be willing to go the extra mile to make our countries safe, comfortable, clean and crime-free for those who can afford it and are willing to spend at our tourist sites. Whiles desperately trying to find the cure for ebola ourselves, we must also make our tourist destinations attractive to receive more visitors anually. But knowing Africa the way i do, it won't take long before i see it in the media that African leaders are 'pleading' with the American government to provide the serum that cured Dr Brantly for African patients to use. Americans have cured their own, it is left for us Africans to do same and i fervently pray this happens soon.

Northern Ghana Travel Bucket List

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Writing a 'bucket list' of places i want to go to always gets me excited. For me a bucket list is like a to-do list without the added pressure. For the past year, i have been living in the northern part of Ghana for my national service ( a mandatory one year spent working for the government upon completing a tertiary institution) but i am done with the service therefore i am back home in the south. Whiles living in the north, i took a one week backpacking trip to explore some of the beautiful tourist sites that the northern region had to offer. The northern parts of Ghana consists of three political regions namely the upper east, upper west and northern regions. All these regions have a variety of tourist sites and places of interest. My backpacking trip could not take me to all the places i wanted to go because i did not have the time or enough money to go there. I am writing this blog post as a public to-do list or travel bucket list which will make me extra committed to going to these places i'm about to mention.

First on my list is Mole National Park: The Mole park is a wildlife game reserve located in the northern region of Ghana. It is about the most popular game park in Ghana and has a variety of wildlife for viewing pleasure. There are elephants, antelopes, monkeys, Buffalos, leopards etc This park is one of the tourist sites i can't wait to visit. Information i've gathered so far tell me its best visited during the dry season which is usually from November to April. I am making plans to go there early next year. Mole has onsite catering and accommodation therefore it would be great to spend a few days watching the wildlife especially the elephants since i've never seen one in real life. Whiles returning to Wa from my backpacking trip, the bus i was travelling in passed by the Mole park but all i saw was tall trees and vast forest. I thought i could catch a glimpse of an elephant or a baboon.

courtesy: Mole Motel Ghana

Larabanga Mosque and Mystery Stone: Close to the Mole National park is the Larabanga Mosque. The mosque is an ancient work of art built by an Islamic trader in the 15th century. Larabanga is one of Ghanas revered tourist sites and receives lots of visitors both nationals and non-nationals alike. It also features prominently on some post stamps from Ghana. Over the years it has gone through several repair works because it was built with mud but the essential design that set the mosque apart has been maintained. The mosque is not very far from the Mole national park (about 10 kilometres)  therefore i plan to visit this ancient mosque as part of my trip to Mole

courtesy: Wikepedia

Close to the Larabanga mosque is the Mysterious stone. Legend has it that during the colonial era in Ghana, a road was to be constructed where the mysterious is situated therefore the stone was removed and displaced but it was found at the exact spot where it was removed the following day. The stone found it's way back when it was removed the second time. This by any standards is not normal hence the name 'mysterious'. This said stone is believed to have healing powers therefore pilgrims to the Larabanga mosque also touch the mysterious stone for healing and spiritual purification. The road has since been diverted around the stone and a wall built around it. I caught a glimpse of the wall which encompasses this stone whiles travelling to Wa but i was really sad i didn't see the stone itself.

Mysterious stone photo courtesy: Ghana photographers

Tongo Whistling Rocks: These rocks can be found in Tongo in the upper east region of Ghana. The rocks at Tongo makes ghostly whistling noises during the harmattan when the weather is generally dry and airy.

Tongo Rocks: Photo credit Ghana Travels

Tono Irrigation Dam: The last tourist site on my northern Ghana travel bucket list is the huge irrigation dam in upper east region of Ghana. It was built in the 70s for agricultural purposes but has clearly served another purpose which is tourism. Tono dam is an ideal destination for water sports and relaxation and it's very popular in the upper east region since there are not enough water bodies in the northern part of Ghana.

West to East: My Top 3 Tourist Sites

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Northern Ghana is an exciting place when it comes to tourism. There are a myriad of tourist destinations and sites to visit. These are my top three out of the various tourist sites i have visited. These three tourist sites can be located in the upper west and upper east regions of Ghana. 

Wechiau Hippopotamus Sanctuary

The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located at a small town called Wechiau in the upper west region of Ghana. The hippopotamus sancutuary is about a 10 kilometre ride from the town square. It is a pleasure to see the hippos swimming on a warm day whiles they come out to look for food at night. The hippopotamus are untamed therefore wander to and fro the Volta river where they reside. It's interesting to see hippopotamus in their natural environment. I went to this tourist site last year and i really enjoyed the trip. I particularly enjoyed the canoe ride called 'river safari' since it was my first time on a canoe. I would not hesitate to go to Wechiau again, may be this time for a longer period and possibly a camping trip. You can read my trip report of this amazing tourist destination here and for all visitors information on accommodation, dinning etc click here.

Hippopotamus skull at wechiau

Paga Crocodile Pond

I read about the Paga crocodile pond when i was a kid and since then it has been on my travel bucket list. Therefore on a recent backpacking trip it was high on my bucket list and i really didn't regret going to Paga because the last time i saw a crocodile, i was watching from a very safe distance whiles the crocodile was caged. This was about 6 years ago at a zoo. But to touch, feel and even squat on a crocodile was much more surreal. It was a great experience. Although it's been a few weeks since i came back from this tourist trip, it still feels like yesterday. The way humans and crocodile coexist in Paga is nothing short of amazing and legend of how the crocodiles became an integral part of the society is nothing short of amazing. At Paga i learnt the word 'herptophobia' as i panicked when it was time for me to hold the crocodile. You can access the trip report here and every tourist information you need about the crocodile pond here.

Crocodile at Paga

Nania-Pikworo Slave Camp

It wasn't after i have been to the Paga crocodile pond did i hear about Nania and when i heard of Nania my mind went straight to C.S Lewis classic book 'chronicles of nania'. But this Nania is different, it is a defunct slave camp which was operated  by African slave masters. Piwkworo slave camp has a harrowing story of slavery which has no doubt has a dent on the African continent and Africa in general. It was only in Pikworo slave camp that i learnt that Africans traded each other for sugar during the slave trade. My trip report is available and you can click here for tourist information if you want to visit Nania-Pikworo slave camp.

This sign post ushers you into the camp

Confessions of an African Backpacker

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This is my last post on the series of my one week backpacking tour where i backpacked from the upper west region of Ghana to the upper east. I am doing a short question and answer question to inform you more on how fun it is to backpack in Ghana

Question: Why did you decide to go on a backpacking trip?

Answer: I had always wanted to visit the tourist sites in the upper east region of Ghana like the Paga crocodile pond and the mysterious stone at Winkongo near Bolgatanga. But i never really made enough time or money to go to all these places. Then the perfect opportunity presented itself. There was a one week break from work therefore i used that time to go on the trip. Besides i knew i wouldn't be in the northern region of Ghana for long (since my mandatory one year service rendered to the government was coming to an end). I wanted to take the trip before its too late. And one week seemed like the perfect duration. It was long enough to see the tourist sites and it was short enough not to overwhelm me since i feared i might not enjoy the backpacking trip.

Question: How did you prepare for your backpacking trip?

Answer: I had never gone backpacking prior to this trip therefore i honestly didn't know what to take along. But northern Ghana is quite sunny and warm therefore i decided to pack 2 pairs of jeans some cotton sweat shirts and some underwear. I went along with a huge sweater as well. I also packed my little laptop so that i could blog about my experience and an ipad since i did not have a camera the ipad served as my camera besides i wanted to upload pictures of the tourist sites on my twitter page. I also downloaded a map of Ghana to enable me track my journey as i went along. I packed some deodorants and a light towel i would use to shower when i stayed in a guest house.

Question: Do you know anybody in the places you wanted to visit?

Answer: Yes i knew one person in Bolgatanga and another old school mate of mine in Tumu but when i called to find out whether i could see them. They were both out of town therefore i didn't get to see any of them. Garu was initially not part of the places i wanted to visit but a very good friend of mine lived there and since it's quite close to Bawku. I added it to the list in order to see my friend.

Met my friend in Garu

Question: How was the entire trip like?

Answer: I really had a good time. It felt good to see places i have heard and finally being there. It was interesting to read the map as the bus moved along during the bus rides. i was tracking every where i went on the map which really cool. For once i got to know how a map actually worked,  I was happy to see the Paga crocodile pond because it's such a major tourist centre in Ghana. I felt really good when i went to Tumu and Navrongo since they are popular towns in Ghana. I also loved the arts and crafts at Bolgatanga, i even bought a cool little xylophone.Though most parts of the trip was fun and exciting, i felt like coming back home on the first day. It rained heavily that day so it was cold, wet and lonely. But then again i told myself nobody was forcing me to go backpacking. I am doing it for fun therefore i can go home anytime i wanted. The fact that i told myself i can go home at anytime put me at ease and helped me relax.

Paga crocodile pond

Question: Any special observations?

Answer: I was really blown away by the level of kindness shown me by complete strangers. People offered me rides on their motorbikes others were willing to escort me to places when i asked directions for. I thought the food in the upper east would be different but it didn't vary much. People were quite surprised when i told them i'm on a backpacking trip. According to them they have not seen an African on a backpacking trip. I didn't know there was another tourist site close to the Paga crocodile pond, a former slave camp known as Nania slave camp so it was great to visit another tourist site i didn't know about.

Watchtower of camp security at Nania slave camp

Question; Knowing what you know now will you do anything differently on your next backpacking trip?

Answer: Sure, i would definitely pack fewer clothes. I didn't even wear 50% of the clothes i took But i would  definitely pack more underwear. The sweater i took was unnecessary since after the first day it was sunny through out the week. The laptop did not serve any purpose because i used the ipad through out the journey. Next time i won't worry too much because one does not achieve anything by worrying and  would rather hope and believe that the world is a safe place.

Question: Any regrets?

Answer: Yes, i couldn't take pictures at night since the ipad does not have a flash light. Therefore i couldn't document what happened in the evenings. It was the world cup season and most of the Ghanaian matches were in the evening so i wanted to document how people were watching and enjoying the world cup. On hindsight i regret my backpacking was only just a week because i was really enjoying it and by the last day i didn't want to come back but i was running out of time and money. I was also sad i couldn't make it to two other tourist sites that is the Tono dam in Navrongo and the mysterious stones which makes ghostly noises at Wunkungo a small village near Bolgatanga.

Second day after i have braced the storm. Notice the big sweater around my neck?

Question: Would you recommend this backpacking trip or backpacking in northern Ghana?

Answer: Yes definitely ( i would like to go again myself and for a longer period this time).

Brought home this cool xylophone as my travel souvenir 

Question: Do you have plans to go on another backpacking trip?

Answer: Now that i have tasted how backpacking feels like, i want to go on one every year. I would take time off every year to backpack and enjoy the wonderful things that my country has and hopefully backpack and holiday in other countries.