Northern Ghana Travel Bucket List

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Writing a 'bucket list' of places i want to go to always gets me excited. For me a bucket list is like a to-do list without the added pressure. For the past year, i have been living in the northern part of Ghana for my national service ( a mandatory one year spent working for the government upon completing a tertiary institution) but i am done with the service therefore i am back home in the south. Whiles living in the north, i took a one week backpacking trip to explore some of the beautiful tourist sites that the northern region had to offer. The northern parts of Ghana consists of three political regions namely the upper east, upper west and northern regions. All these regions have a variety of tourist sites and places of interest. My backpacking trip could not take me to all the places i wanted to go because i did not have the time or enough money to go there. I am writing this blog post as a public to-do list or travel bucket list which will make me extra committed to going to these places i'm about to mention.

First on my list is Mole National Park: The Mole park is a wildlife game reserve located in the northern region of Ghana. It is about the most popular game park in Ghana and has a variety of wildlife for viewing pleasure. There are elephants, antelopes, monkeys, Buffalos, leopards etc This park is one of the tourist sites i can't wait to visit. Information i've gathered so far tell me its best visited during the dry season which is usually from November to April. I am making plans to go there early next year. Mole has onsite catering and accommodation therefore it would be great to spend a few days watching the wildlife especially the elephants since i've never seen one in real life. Whiles returning to Wa from my backpacking trip, the bus i was travelling in passed by the Mole park but all i saw was tall trees and vast forest. I thought i could catch a glimpse of an elephant or a baboon.

courtesy: Mole Motel Ghana

Larabanga Mosque and Mystery Stone: Close to the Mole National park is the Larabanga Mosque. The mosque is an ancient work of art built by an Islamic trader in the 15th century. Larabanga is one of Ghanas revered tourist sites and receives lots of visitors both nationals and non-nationals alike. It also features prominently on some post stamps from Ghana. Over the years it has gone through several repair works because it was built with mud but the essential design that set the mosque apart has been maintained. The mosque is not very far from the Mole national park (about 10 kilometres)  therefore i plan to visit this ancient mosque as part of my trip to Mole

courtesy: Wikepedia

Close to the Larabanga mosque is the Mysterious stone. Legend has it that during the colonial era in Ghana, a road was to be constructed where the mysterious is situated therefore the stone was removed and displaced but it was found at the exact spot where it was removed the following day. The stone found it's way back when it was removed the second time. This by any standards is not normal hence the name 'mysterious'. This said stone is believed to have healing powers therefore pilgrims to the Larabanga mosque also touch the mysterious stone for healing and spiritual purification. The road has since been diverted around the stone and a wall built around it. I caught a glimpse of the wall which encompasses this stone whiles travelling to Wa but i was really sad i didn't see the stone itself.

Mysterious stone photo courtesy: Ghana photographers

Tongo Whistling Rocks: These rocks can be found in Tongo in the upper east region of Ghana. The rocks at Tongo makes ghostly whistling noises during the harmattan when the weather is generally dry and airy.

Tongo Rocks: Photo credit Ghana Travels

Tono Irrigation Dam: The last tourist site on my northern Ghana travel bucket list is the huge irrigation dam in upper east region of Ghana. It was built in the 70s for agricultural purposes but has clearly served another purpose which is tourism. Tono dam is an ideal destination for water sports and relaxation and it's very popular in the upper east region since there are not enough water bodies in the northern part of Ghana.

West to East: My Top 3 Tourist Sites

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Northern Ghana is an exciting place when it comes to tourism. There are a myriad of tourist destinations and sites to visit. These are my top three out of the various tourist sites i have visited. These three tourist sites can be located in the upper west and upper east regions of Ghana. 

Wechiau Hippopotamus Sanctuary

The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located at a small town called Wechiau in the upper west region of Ghana. The hippopotamus sancutuary is about a 10 kilometre ride from the town square. It is a pleasure to see the hippos swimming on a warm day whiles they come out to look for food at night. The hippopotamus are untamed therefore wander to and fro the Volta river where they reside. It's interesting to see hippopotamus in their natural environment. I went to this tourist site last year and i really enjoyed the trip. I particularly enjoyed the canoe ride called 'river safari' since it was my first time on a canoe. I would not hesitate to go to Wechiau again, may be this time for a longer period and possibly a camping trip. You can read my trip report of this amazing tourist destination here and for all visitors information on accommodation, dinning etc click here.

Hippopotamus skull at wechiau

Paga Crocodile Pond

I read about the Paga crocodile pond when i was a kid and since then it has been on my travel bucket list. Therefore on a recent backpacking trip it was high on my bucket list and i really didn't regret going to Paga because the last time i saw a crocodile, i was watching from a very safe distance whiles the crocodile was caged. This was about 6 years ago at a zoo. But to touch, feel and even squat on a crocodile was much more surreal. It was a great experience. Although it's been a few weeks since i came back from this tourist trip, it still feels like yesterday. The way humans and crocodile coexist in Paga is nothing short of amazing and legend of how the crocodiles became an integral part of the society is nothing short of amazing. At Paga i learnt the word 'herptophobia' as i panicked when it was time for me to hold the crocodile. You can access the trip report here and every tourist information you need about the crocodile pond here.

Crocodile at Paga

Nania-Pikworo Slave Camp

It wasn't after i have been to the Paga crocodile pond did i hear about Nania and when i heard of Nania my mind went straight to C.S Lewis classic book 'chronicles of nania'. But this Nania is different, it is a defunct slave camp which was operated  by African slave masters. Piwkworo slave camp has a harrowing story of slavery which has no doubt has a dent on the African continent and Africa in general. It was only in Pikworo slave camp that i learnt that Africans traded each other for sugar during the slave trade. My trip report is available and you can click here for tourist information if you want to visit Nania-Pikworo slave camp.

This sign post ushers you into the camp

Confessions of an African Backpacker

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This is my last post on the series of my one week backpacking tour where i backpacked from the upper west region of Ghana to the upper east. I am doing a short question and answer question to inform you more on how fun it is to backpack in Ghana

Question: Why did you decide to go on a backpacking trip?

Answer: I had always wanted to visit the tourist sites in the upper east region of Ghana like the Paga crocodile pond and the mysterious stone at Winkongo near Bolgatanga. But i never really made enough time or money to go to all these places. Then the perfect opportunity presented itself. There was a one week break from work therefore i used that time to go on the trip. Besides i knew i wouldn't be in the northern region of Ghana for long (since my mandatory one year service rendered to the government was coming to an end). I wanted to take the trip before its too late. And one week seemed like the perfect duration. It was long enough to see the tourist sites and it was short enough not to overwhelm me since i feared i might not enjoy the backpacking trip.

Question: How did you prepare for your backpacking trip?

Answer: I had never gone backpacking prior to this trip therefore i honestly didn't know what to take along. But northern Ghana is quite sunny and warm therefore i decided to pack 2 pairs of jeans some cotton sweat shirts and some underwear. I went along with a huge sweater as well. I also packed my little laptop so that i could blog about my experience and an ipad since i did not have a camera the ipad served as my camera besides i wanted to upload pictures of the tourist sites on my twitter page. I also downloaded a map of Ghana to enable me track my journey as i went along. I packed some deodorants and a light towel i would use to shower when i stayed in a guest house.

Question: Do you know anybody in the places you wanted to visit?

Answer: Yes i knew one person in Bolgatanga and another old school mate of mine in Tumu but when i called to find out whether i could see them. They were both out of town therefore i didn't get to see any of them. Garu was initially not part of the places i wanted to visit but a very good friend of mine lived there and since it's quite close to Bawku. I added it to the list in order to see my friend.

Met my friend in Garu

Question: How was the entire trip like?

Answer: I really had a good time. It felt good to see places i have heard and finally being there. It was interesting to read the map as the bus moved along during the bus rides. i was tracking every where i went on the map which really cool. For once i got to know how a map actually worked,  I was happy to see the Paga crocodile pond because it's such a major tourist centre in Ghana. I felt really good when i went to Tumu and Navrongo since they are popular towns in Ghana. I also loved the arts and crafts at Bolgatanga, i even bought a cool little xylophone.Though most parts of the trip was fun and exciting, i felt like coming back home on the first day. It rained heavily that day so it was cold, wet and lonely. But then again i told myself nobody was forcing me to go backpacking. I am doing it for fun therefore i can go home anytime i wanted. The fact that i told myself i can go home at anytime put me at ease and helped me relax.

Paga crocodile pond

Question: Any special observations?

Answer: I was really blown away by the level of kindness shown me by complete strangers. People offered me rides on their motorbikes others were willing to escort me to places when i asked directions for. I thought the food in the upper east would be different but it didn't vary much. People were quite surprised when i told them i'm on a backpacking trip. According to them they have not seen an African on a backpacking trip. I didn't know there was another tourist site close to the Paga crocodile pond, a former slave camp known as Nania slave camp so it was great to visit another tourist site i didn't know about.

Watchtower of camp security at Nania slave camp

Question; Knowing what you know now will you do anything differently on your next backpacking trip?

Answer: Sure, i would definitely pack fewer clothes. I didn't even wear 50% of the clothes i took But i would  definitely pack more underwear. The sweater i took was unnecessary since after the first day it was sunny through out the week. The laptop did not serve any purpose because i used the ipad through out the journey. Next time i won't worry too much because one does not achieve anything by worrying and  would rather hope and believe that the world is a safe place.

Question: Any regrets?

Answer: Yes, i couldn't take pictures at night since the ipad does not have a flash light. Therefore i couldn't document what happened in the evenings. It was the world cup season and most of the Ghanaian matches were in the evening so i wanted to document how people were watching and enjoying the world cup. On hindsight i regret my backpacking was only just a week because i was really enjoying it and by the last day i didn't want to come back but i was running out of time and money. I was also sad i couldn't make it to two other tourist sites that is the Tono dam in Navrongo and the mysterious stones which makes ghostly noises at Wunkungo a small village near Bolgatanga.

Second day after i have braced the storm. Notice the big sweater around my neck?

Question: Would you recommend this backpacking trip or backpacking in northern Ghana?

Answer: Yes definitely ( i would like to go again myself and for a longer period this time).

Brought home this cool xylophone as my travel souvenir 

Question: Do you have plans to go on another backpacking trip?

Answer: Now that i have tasted how backpacking feels like, i want to go on one every year. I would take time off every year to backpack and enjoy the wonderful things that my country has and hopefully backpack and holiday in other countries.

Tamale: My Brief Stopover

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After visiting my friend in Garu, it was time to go back to Lassia, yeah!!1 my same old boring village life after an awesome time backpacking through Tumu Navrongo Paga  Bawku and Garu. Yet there was one place i haven't visited and that was Tamale. But there was a problem. I had run out of money and it was a Sunday whiles school was reopening on Monday (i teach). So i figured i could pass through Tamale en route to Wa. If i get to spend a few hours at Tamale, i can't really say i have stayed there but at least i would have a fair idea of what Tamale looks like. Besides i didn't want to go back the route i came therefore i decided to do a brief stopover at Tamale.

Barrier after Pawlugu where there is fresh farm produce for sale

First there was the taxi ride from Garu to Bawku. At Bawku i sat in a bus enroute to Tamale. Some of the towns worthy of note on the Bolgatanga to Tamale highway are Savelugu, Pawlugu, Wulugu, Wale Wale etc. After a bus ride that took about 2 hours and 30 minutes we made our way to Tamale. 

These pictures were taken whiles the bus was in motion.

Upon arriving at Tamale, it was a little late in the afternoon around 3pm  and i had to continue my journey the same day. The ride from Tamale to Wa my final destination is another 6 hour bus ride therefore i had to get on the Wa bound bus immediately. I got really sad i couldn't explore Tamale the capital of the northern region of Ghana like i wanted to. But i know i would definitely visit another time. Although sad, i was also happy at the same time because in a single day i have been to three different cities in Ghana because my bus passed through Bolgatanga (capital of the upper east) en route to Tamale (capital of the northern region) and i was headed for Wa (capital of the upper west) so that make 3 different cities. I deserve an award...

In Garu: Everything is Round

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From Bawku and all the blabbing about donkey travel  and how they can help reduce Co2 emission and global warming. I made my way to my friends place at Garu which is a small town about 35 kilometres from Bawku in the upper east region of Ghana. At this time all the travelling i've done during the week from statue watching in Bolgatanga to squatting on top of a crocodile for a pose at Paga was beginning to take its toll on me and i was dying for a proper bed and some good home made meal.

At Garu, all picture picture taking and interesting topics for blog posts derailed as i met my friend Joeseph. Everything then degenerated into conversations and chit chatting and our obsession with the latest movies (our shared passion). We also visited mutual friends who were also doing their national service in the area. But one thing that really took my interest was the round nature of the mud houses. Mud houses in the upper west where i was coming from are usually rectangular or square shaped therefore it was a pleasure seeing new ways of how people build houses.

I wished i lived in one of these 'bad boys' ha!

But i also wondered how furniture and other house hold equipment will fit into a round hut but it turns out people who live in mud houses do not have much anyway therefore there was nothing to worry about. Inside a mud house you will usually find a mat spread on the floor, a radio set, a plastic chair and the individuals clothes and a few cooking utensils. The lifestyle is quite minimalistic.

Picture of the town 'Garu'

After two days in Garu, my backpacking trip had come to an end officially as in the places i wanted to visit because in Garu i crossed every destination off my bucket list except Tamale. But then i wanted to go back to Wa through Tamale so that i could have a feel of what the northern region of Ghana looks like since i have not been there yet and besides i didn't want to go back the same way i came that is through Upper east region.

Bye Joe but before i leave let's take a selfie!!!

The Xylophone With Wise Words

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Whiles in Bolgatanga on my backpacking trip, i spent some time at the arts and crafts village  to view some of the amazing hand woven artifacts the craftsmen have made. Whiles perusing the stores (purchasing a craft was not in mind). i came to one shop and saw a nice little xylophone i couldn’t take my eyes off. I therefore asked of its price from the shop attendant who told me it cost 20 cedis (about $10)  but she was not really sure of the price. She claimed she was watching the shop whiles the owner is away for a funeral so i should come the following day. When she requested i come the following day, i was quite happy because i felt i was ready to buy it on impulse.

But back at the guest house, i couldn’t get this xylophone off  my mind so early the following morning armed with 20 cedis in my pocket, i marched straight to the crafts store. Upon arrival i didn’t meet the attendant but rather a guy with dreadlocks. After the usual pleasantries i informed him of why i was there and he said he was informed of my coming to the shop and yes the she lady i met yesterday quoted the correct price.

So I defied all my backpacking rules that is 

• Buying a xylophone is not part of the budget
• This was going to be “extra excess”  luggage (emphasis on extra and excess because for the time i started backpacking i was already carrying this huge sweater which I wasn’t wearing)
• I had a few destinations and tourist sites to go

I still broke the rules and bought the xylophone anyway. Mr Dreadlocks went ahead to tie a few strings on the xylophone and  tune it properly. After that he played a wonderful tune on the xylophone. That was when it occurred to me i didn’t even know how to play a xylophone.So I panicked and informed him how i was eager to buy a xylophone but didn’t know how to play it. He said 

"that’s the nice things about xylophones you learn how to play it by creating your own tunes. Very much like life, you have to dance to your own rhythm"

 This statement reminded me of a blog post  i wrote a few days ago about how not talent but hard work will make me successful. I smiled

A Case For The Donkeys

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Since i started backpacking, i have come to realise how important donkeys are as a mode of transportation for people in the Upper east region. Granted there are donkeys in Upper west  as well but the numbers here cannot match that of the Upper east. These donkeys usually cart a varied range of things from farm produce, firewood to goods meant for the market not forgetting the occasional lazy human being. Doing all this at a graceful speed of 20 kilometres per hour. The cool thing about donkeys is that they do their work with so much grace and i couldn't spot " i am sad because God created me a donkey" look on any of their faces. But  later in the night my theory of  "donkeys have no regrets" was to be put to shame. Apparently donkeys have this really whinny high-pitched sound they make when they have no work doing. The noise they make is quite similar to a horses' whine but this one was on another excruciatingly annoying level. Imagine sleeping at 2am whiles a donkey stand behind your window making such noise.

But whiny noises or not i have grown to like them i wouldn't mind getting one myself. Because think about  it. You don't have to buy any fuel, you also need no mechanic and all the pain that comes with owning a car.  all you need is a stable shelter some forage and water and you're good to go. It wouldn't be a bad idea as this will be how in my own small way reduce my carbon footprint and help reduce global warming besides things does not look good for my country Ghana economy wise and fuel prices are going through the roof therefore my donkey would be how i would help my country depend less on fossil fuels. Throw back, (Jesus sat on a donkey)

From Bolgatanga i made my way to Bawku where i stayed less than two hours because i was in a hurry to see my friend from university who is based in one of the towns near Bawku called Garu. These are samples of  pictures from my stash of donkey pic collections. Enjoy

Tumu

Navrongo

Such a beauty this one- Garu Tempane

Arts & Crafts in Bolgatanga

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My previous post was about how i spent a few days in Bolgatanga, which is the capital of the Upper east region of Ghana. One of the places that is not supposed to be missed when in Bolga (as is affectionately called) is the Arts and craft centre which is near the Bolg-Navrongo highway. There are many stores doing really nice work of art in the form of drums, masks, talismans, necklaces, baskets, bags and what have you.

Bolgatanga: Statues and Colourful Baskets

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Bolgatanga the land of  colorful cane baskets and statues that is what i noticed about the place. From Paga i made my way to the taxi station where for six cedis i shared a taxi with three other passengers which was en route to Bolga as its called. After passing through villages and other little hamlets we gradually made our way to Bolgatanga. The road for this part of the trip was very good and i enjoyed the taxi ride so much i wish it didn't end. But after riding for about 30 minutes we entered Bolga. As we entered the city i was grinning from ear to ear because i have finally made it to the capital of the Upper east of Ghana and have made it to half of my backpacking trip which i felt was phenomenal.
Bolgatanga is much bigger than Wa and has a nice hilly backdrop very much like Nkawkaw another town in the eastern region of Ghana. Upon reaching, i went guest house hunting to find a place to stay for the time i was going to be there. I found an affordable guest house called Kings & Queens where i lodged. The  bathroom lights at Kings & Queens was working ( the first actually functioning bathroom lights) since i have been on the road.

Wow!!! Accra is so far away

                             

                           
My guest house was close to a catholic church called 'Sacred Heart' and one of the things that i did everyday for the three days i was there was to go statue watching around the church. There are many statues along the church road and the main highway all  the way back to the church. Waking up very early every morning to walk past the statues was such a pleasure.

Another one of my favorite statues

Street views of Bolga

My room at the guest house

One of the popular trades in Bolga and surrounding villages is the making of baskets, there were many women carrying baskets to the market for sale as well as brisk trading of nicely woven baskets in various shops in town. Baskets seem to be a big deal in Bolgatanga. My time in this nice town passed away so quickly that i wanted to stay some more. Soon enough my stay came to an end and it was time to move on to Bawku another town on the backpacking list . But i would definitely return someday.